It occurred to me a few weeks back that despite being Nigerian and having a love for fashion I have never really paid attention to the fashion scene in Africa. With that, I wasted no time in searching up 'Lagos Fashion Week', scrolling through the archives while simultaneously searching the designers I liked up on Instagram. I had soooooo many tabs open by this point and one of them was Bola Yahaya. The picture above grabbed me and the statement in the bio - 'Autobiographical fashion narrative ● Sustainable Fashion' had me quaking in my boots with questions that needed answering. Read on to see what I found.
How did you come into fashion design?
While I never considered being a fashion designer as a kid, I was the creative one who designed custom birthday cards for family and friends. I would drape my dolls in scrap fabrics I got from the tailor’s dustbin.
The thing is I never saw fashion as a career path because all we saw around us were tailors.
I think a lot of clarity came as I left Junior School for the long holiday. I was an apprentice at a Adiire (tie-dye print) shop and a lot of clients were fashion designers. The boss then would show me garments that had been made out of fabrics they bought. That definitely opened up a part of me I didn't know was there.
Then I got into the University where a lot of focus was being put on skill acquisition. Fashion, of course, was the go-to hobby for me. I consider myself a self-taught designer because a lot of the things I currently know about fashion are things I learnt online.
What influences or inspires your designs?
Fashion for me is about storytelling and the stories I'm telling are that of Nigerians gods and goddesses.
Yoruba mythology is met with criticism amongst Nigerians because of its similarities to traditional worship, which majority believe is evil and diabolical. Yet Greek and Roman mythology is widely popular all over the world (even in Nigeria) and is even taught in schools overseas as a Classical Civilisation.
Just like other kinds of mythology, Yoruba mythology is rich with interesting stories about our heritage and culture, and it's a shame that it's not as popular in these parts.
You incorporate sustainability into your designs - why is that important to you?
Sustainability is something that is really new for me. While interning with a designer, I noticed the amount of waste produced in the garment manufacturing process. Then the amount of waste you see when you go to mini garment production hubs like Yaba in Lagos is saddening.
I'm still learning and it has been an incredible and interesting journey.
How prominent is sustainability in Nigeria’s fashion scene? (Thrifting, vintage, luxury, secondhand)
It is prominent yet still on the low. Second-hand clothing make up a huge aspect of the Nigerian fashion ecosystem even though they don’t know it. I'm not sure of the figures but a large number of people wear thrifted clothes. Sustainability in the Nigerian fashion scene is still in a sort of infancy stage. Not a lot of people understand the word.
We need to put the word out, get a lot more people involved. Sometimes, you even see some fast fashion brands claiming to be sustainable so as to drive conversation to their brand. Then you have a chit chat with their Creative Director and you find out that they know next to nothing about sustainability. What they do is termed Greenwashing.
What do you think about inclusivity (women of all shapes and sizes) in the modelling industry and in Nigeria’s modelling world?
Inclusivity is really important. I mean, the women we make clothes for are not all size 4. And it is important that they are able to see a representation of themselves on the runways. It is slowly gaining ground in Nigeria. ‘About That Curvy Life’ curated a show for Plus size brands some fashion seasons back. But I don’t think it's enough.
We shouldn't have "plus-size brands" rather a brand that caters to all body sizes. A big brand's lineup should include a diverse range of models inclusive of all shapes, sizes and ages – representing the true beauty and sensuality of all women.
You seem to feel strongly about female empowerment and equality between males and females, could you shed more light on that?
The idea of toxic masculinity and weak femininity is something I want to smash with my platform. Gender equality affects men as much as it affects women. With my fashion brand, I want to be able to push the narrative of equality.
When people hear gender equality, they legit shut their minds out because they think "oh, this person wants men and women to become the same". But that is far from it, it is just that people's rights, responsibilities and opportunities should not depend on whether they are male or female.
For someone looking to be a sustainability-conscious fashion designer, what advice would you give?
Sustainability is an all-round ball game which includes engaging in ethical practices in the garment production process, trying to reduce your brand's carbon footprint, garment packaging options.
There are a lot of ways to build a sustainable fashion brand as a designer. You can focus on custom made clothing or even offer redesigning services for old garments.
If you are not ready to walk all the way, don't bother. It is hard work and it involves a lot of reading, research, testing and if you're in fashion for quick bucks, it would easily wear you out.
Great read. I'm a total fan of anyone pushing feminity, and the need for equality. Great job, you guys!!
ReplyDeleteSame here! Glad you enjoyed it!
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